Day 40 - Thunder Bay, Ont. to Nipigon, Ont.

June 22, 2026 (Monday)

Start Time: 6:30 am 

Stop Time: 2:00 pm 

KM Travelled: 111 km 

Elevation: +658/ -783 m 

Special Stuff: Taking time for others, expertise of experienced bikers, my husband Brian

Yesterday I went to for a massage to fix my right shoulder, but apparently, by whole left upper body was locked up - I must have been in a 'comfortably numb' bliss state. I can now feel the left side of my back, and it's giving me some feedback about having felt neglected. Overall though, my body feels great - a thai massage was the right self-care choice.

Before setting out today, my chain needs some TLC. It’s been a week since the chain was changed, so a bit of oil will do it some good. As I’m oiling it, the woman I had a chit chat with in the elevator came over and talked for a bit. Her daughter is in hospital – she shares how much it impacts her daughter’s life and her's. I take time for the conversation. I find I have many of these conversations along my journey. People who are going through, or have gone through a challenging time. This is the humanity of this experience. We wish each other well and go our separate ways.

I start the ride feeling anxious about this next 700 km and narrow highway shoulder. I know it is not a good mindset to be in, but I just can't help how I am feeling. I start to ride down the highway and notice signs that indicate NO snowmobiles, NO pedestrians, and NO bicycles.

At first I ignore the sign – I don’t know of any other way to get to Nipigon – and this is the route other bikers take. The narrow shoulder has me concerned – especially with a hill coming up in the distance. I stop at the next road and get my Ride with GPS app to do some heavy lifting. I don’t like going too far off the highway, especially in more remote locations, but it might be a better option than this highway.

My research finds a Lakeshore Drive route that I can take. Luckily it is fairly well populated and has a flat road. There are lilacs and lupins everywhere. It smells great.

After about 30 km, the route takes me to a bushwhacking trailhead that I refuse to take. I'm don't want to go back to the highway either. I’m feeling really disheartened. It's 9:00 am my time and 6:00 am BC time. I decide that it's time to call on the wisdom and experience of a fellow biker – I send a text for advice on how to navigate this stretch. 

With no option, I make my way back to the highway – which thankfully is only a few kilometers away. In that time, I receive a response to my text (I love early risers!). My heart lifts as the text is both informative and encouraging. The highway should get better.  

Somewhere earlier along the highway today (just outside of Thunder Bay) was the Terry Fox Memorial. I saw something on the other side of the highway, but I was struggling with the shoulder and it looked like it involved a hill to climb. I decided to skip it. The highway I’m on is the 'Highway of Courage' – in honour of Terry Fox. I feel like I’m already paying my respect to Terry Fox since I am having to summon a lot of courage today. 

I stop at a little store about 40 km out of Nipigon – the store keeper comments of how bright I am with my pink shirt and flashing light (check mark for visibility). I ask about the highway and how long this section of the tiny little shoulder goes on for (for some unknown reason the tiny shoulder comes and goes). In our conversation, I learn of his business woes. This store is currently right beside the two-lane highway, however, the twinned highway that is being developed, will not pass by his store. He will lose a lot of business - a scary situation to be facing. In spite of such a fate, he kindly offers to fill my water from the sink instead of me having to pay for bottled water. I choose instead to buy bottled water. thank him for the information he provides about the road ahead, and wish him the best. 

Thus far in my travels, I’ve been incredibly lucky, and have enjoyed tailwinds, and semi-tailwinds. Today however, I get pushed around by some bully headwinds coming from the northeast. I don’t bother to check my weather apps to confirm, because regardless of the direction and strength of the winds, I still need to complete the ride. Knowing the details might only mess with my head. 

Today's ride brings a few interesting things like signs to amethyst mines (my birthstone) and a lovely bright red rock on the hillside. Apparently the red rock comes from oxidation of iron-bearing minerals. This area is an ancient deserts (interesting how Chaplin, Saskatchewan was an ocean, and this was a desert).

I get a descent motel room for the night with a gas/ convenience store and restaurant across the highway. The restaurant food tastes homemade – it’s delicious. I have bean with bacon soup starter with Salisbury steak, mashed potatoes, corn and gravy. What a treat! They also have a great selection of sandwiches for tomorrow’s ride. When the waitress hears of my adventure she shares with me that she's off to Newfoundland - a place she has not been to in 61 years. She is very excited to visit.

An exciting update, Brian is en route to come out to join me. He’s been driving for three days. I check on his progress…he’s getting closer – maybe he’ll catch up to me tomorrow. I look forward to seeing him. We haven't talked much about what his plans are, all I know is that it's a long ways to come for a short visit. He still needs to work, so he'll be moving from location to location (an hour of travel time) before or after his work day. Brian being here will not make the actual ride any easier, but he will help my heart to feel a bit lighter. I think he’ll be a big motivation for me to get out on the road each morning as I have no desire to listen to or watch him work all day. 

Back at the motel, I quickly doze off to a restful sleep with my sleep mask on while thinking about where the daylight savings is when it is dark in the morning and light late into the night.