Day 41 - Nipigon, Ont. to Terrace Bay, Ont.

June 23, 2026 (Tuesday)

Start Time: 6:30 am

Stop Time: 2:00 pm

KM Travelled:108 km 

Elevation: +1,182/ - 1,181 m 

Special Stuff: Generous road shoulders, Christmas tree smells, Lake views, Bunnies 

I come out of my motel room, and I notice the truck stop parking lot across the highway is full of parked trucks and trailers. As I'm loading up my bike a fellow in his 60's, who looks to be a workman, comes out of his room next to me to have a smoke and we chat for a few minutes. He is a former truck driver who used to drive this stretch of road. He shares about the section coming up. “Most truckers”, he says, “take the #11 that turns off just past town - to avoid the hills”. If the narrow shoulder continues, this man has just made my day. I don’t even mind that I’ve just learned that there are big hills coming up. For me, a narrow shoulder, big hills and trucks are an unwelcome combo...at least now the trucks are (mostly) out of the equation.

Armed with this insightful information, I head out on the road. 

I soon learn that I’ve got a great shoulder to ride on and it continues the whole entire day. This is great because the hills, the heat and some nasty bugs taking bites are still a challenge, even with fewer trucks.

The ride is only 108 km (a shorter day distance-wise), but it's a hard day with climbs and descents. Normally, I would expect to finish a 100 km ride in 4-5 hours. Today I finish in 7.5 hours. The hills provide some reward in that they provide beautiful views of Lake Superior. (The photos do not do the view - nor the hills justice.) I pass the 700 km from the Ontario border marker. I notice on the steep and fast rides down, it often smells like Christmas trees. 

I have not seen many animals, but the past few days I’ve noticed bunny rabbits again. Back in BC, I had a lot of bunny rabbit sightings, but that was a long time ago.  

One thing I’ve noticed for many days is an absolutely beautiful song of a bird. I wish I knew the name of the bird. I've been trying to capture it on my Merlin app (which identifies birds by their bird call), but have not been successful with getting a good recording. When there is no traffic and when the birds are chirping and sharing their songs, it is so amazingly calming. I feel like I am gliding along in a little zen bubble - feeling that all is well in the world. 

I normally don’t take long rests on my rides, but today I sat at a rest stop beside Lake Superior to store up some gumption to keep going the last 30 km. I see on the map that Brian won’t get to me today, and it gets me down. I try to think about other things when a couple from the UK come to talk with me. They are travelling from Calgary to Toronto. We had fun reflecting on shared experiences on our respective trips (hailstorms, the big coke can, the Saskatchewan sky). We wish each other well on our continuing journeys.  

Just past the rest stop, I come across a construction zone. "Only 5 km", "up a few hills". Construction zones are quite stressful for bikers - on account of the pressure to get through them in a timely way and not hold up lines of traffic. This one is interesting because there is a slow moving machine – like a forklift, but not a forklift (faster than me) that needs to get through. I get to follow him through the zone, and the flag lady follows us with her truck. I get through the construction zone in great time - which I'm impressed with. (I hope there aren’t many more of these construction zones with big hills.) 

After the construction site, I stop to book my accommodation for the night and continue on. Shortly after, there is a familiar sound gradually getting louder behind me. I look in my rear-view mirror and find that the slow-moving machine - like a forklift but not a forklift is about to pass me. I stop and wave to the driver who is waving back with the biggest smile. I am surprised that this sort of vehicle is allowed to be on the highway. I give him lots of space ahead of me – as this situation looks likes an accident waiting to happen. 

Along my final approach to Terrace Bay, I come across someone who is walking in my lane with one of those chariot buggies. He takes a video of me as I come towards him (which feels weird). I say 'hi' and smile, but I don’t stop to talk. Another biker on the other side of the highway shouts out a “hello” to me – I say” hello” back, but again, make no effort to stop. I think of the couple back at the Kenora rest stop and wonder if there will be more travellers like these folks (ha, ha, like me). 

I arrive at my motel and carry my bike and luggage up to my second floor room. I am in desperate need of washing up - I have chain oil on my lower legs and and dried sweat caked with dust all over the rest of my exposed skin. I have a beautiful room with white sheets and nice decor - I take super care not to get anything dirty as I want to fully enjoy this luxury (that Brian is paying for on account of his tardiness arriving (he does not know this yet)). Before I can relax, I get my laundry done next door and do my food shopping for tomorrow’s ride. Of note: In my opinion, Traveller's Gas Station Convenience Store probably has the very best gas station convenience store food in all of Canada. 

At the restaurant where I have dinner, I notice an interesting poster called “Lake Superior: Graveyard of the Great Lakes”. It shows the known shipwrecks since 1800 AD. There are A LOT of shipwrecks including the Edmund Fitzgerald. Floating around on Lake Superior would need some 'know how' (and a lot of luck). I admire people who are skilled and experienced in the nautical life. It is something I know only a little bit about – just the basics for kayaking safely close to shore around Squamish. 

At dinner, I check on Brian’s progress. He is around the Kenora/ Dryden area and has seen his first ever moose! That’s a pretty cool experience. I miss Brian and cross my fingers that he’ll finally catch up with me tomorrow.